Pender Harbour (& our run to the border)

June 27 & 28, 2022

43 NM, 1 hour, 46 minutes

The weather forecast was showing consistent rain and wind headed our direction, so we opted to make Pender Harbour along the Sunshine Coast our next stopping spot, as the need to start heading south for our descent home couldn't be ignored. It looked to be a location that we could find some entertainment for the kids and some variety in dining.

"Pender Harbour is the name of a harbour and also the larger area around the harbour, which is surrounded by small communities such as Madeira Park (salalus), Kleindale, and Garden Bay. These small communities form a horseshoe around the ocean coastline and are interspersed with freshwater lakes." - Sunshine Coast Tourism

We reserved space at the Pender Harbor Resort in Duncan Cove. It is made up of a marina, cabins, yurts, and RV camp spaces. The facility is on the new side, or at least kept up well. We were attracted to it for the option of the pool, but we also had access to their fire pit. This would have been a neat addition to our trip, but the upcoming change in precipitation didn't make it a viable option. The resort has kayaks and paddle boards for rent, and this is a perfect harbor for them. Lots of bays and residences to paddle by.

Madeira Park is the larger of the areas in this community. This is where you can find some eateries and the full size market to provision. There is a bank, but if you are planning to take your American money to it in an attempt to get Canadian change for laundry, this isn't where you should do that. You should talk the small sundries store in to taking your $20 bill straight across for a Canadian $20 (ignore the 70% exchange rate) and then take that back to the bank for change. Just one of those tips we wished we had known.

We headed to Madeira Park by dinghy (without incident!) to try out the local sushi. We are finding out that Monday and Tuesdays are pretty standard days to be closed. So, while we missed out on our intended restaurant, Aqui Es Mexico is next door and is wonderful!

---

June 29, 2022

86 NM, 4 hours, 45 minutes

In watching the weather closely, using the apps by Predict Wind and Windy.com, we decided our safest time to make our run to the border was going to be at 5 am on Wednesday morning. In an effort to provide proof of our decision to leave, I am including the screenshots from both apps where all looked calm.

What I can confirm with the video below is that the Strait of Georgia was still plenty riled up over the previous days weather. It was a nail biting 2 hours in 4-6 foot swells. The rock and roll of the water certainly isn't my favorite time, but the logs sneaking in and out of the waves is just some fun sucking time.

We crossed the straits as quickly and as safely as the waters would allow. Once we had reached the south end of Gabriola Island, we took Gabriola Passage to get tucked in for some shelter and more protected waterways. The balance of the trip wasn't all smooth sailing, but it was a helluvalot better.

Roche Harbor was our planned reentry to the the United States. I had previously dowloaded the CBP Roam app (soon to by CBP One) to alert customs of our arrival. When we arrived into the bay, I requested a video chat. It was a very short wait, like I couldn't get all the way through a bowl of cereal before I was in view of our officer and having to wake kids to show their faces on the video. Different than Canada, the US did not care that Leah wasn't traveling with her biological father. The same as Canada, we were not asked about our dogs. We were cleared for crossing and never had to stop the boat.

We were required to purchase a decal from US Customs and Border Protection prior to completing our customs process on the Roam app. Once complete and the $30 is paid, we could use our payment tracking number as our decal number. In the future, I would make sure this step was done. The website was one of those that makes you pick a 20 character alphanumeric password that can't include any numbers or letters in the alphabet.

We tied off to the metal cleats in Roche Harbor, the likes of which had not been seen during our Canadian travels. All of the docks have been wood. My assumption is that they have so many damn logs in the waters, that there must be a law to put it to proper use by only ever using lumber at the docks. If that is incorrect, I am looking for an answer as to why this is.

When we started being realistic about needing to get going towards home, we weren't all that excited about the San Juans. We have been many times and had seen so much beauty farther north that it had really lost its luster. What we realized when rushing off the boat to a libation at the Madrona Grill, was that we hadn't found any spots over our previous 2 weeks that felt anything close to what Roche has. We would be reminded of the same in Friday Harbor the following day. It was a good feeling to know that our islands are still a special place.

Roche and its unified seaside town vibe is particularly pretty when dressed for the 4th of July. It's treated just like a birthday party with flags and and banners everywhere, even on the backside of the market by the dumpsters. It was a fitting spot to ease ourselves out of Canada and back to the US. I also eased my nerves out of log watch exhaustion with a "Fluffy Duck on the Deck". This is a town staple with New Amsterdam vodka, gin, Bacardi Light rum, orange juice, Grenadine and heavy cream are given a quick shake then finished with a Galliano float, whip cream and a maraschino cherry. I don't know which of the hard alcohols saved me from the "we need to sell the boat" feeling, but 1 of the 3 did the trick.

Leah got the virgin Pig War Martini. It's another fun one with a mini pig to celebrate the actual pig that caused an international war in 1859. Here's a full story at the National Park Service.

The rest of our day was spent with making some new friends from the Seattle Yacht Club who were in town for their annual Henry Island outstation festivities. One of them is a female for females boating instructor. This is a concept I can get on board with. Dave and I love each other very much, but there are some things that are better left to strangers. We had a super wonderful meal at McMillin's Dining Room. It is one of those types of dining experiences that you will remember the taste for always.

---

June 30, 2022

12 NM, 37 minutes

We woke with no particular rush to the last full day of our trip. The dogs were walked, Roche's famous donuts were bought, we washed the salt off the boat, and battened down the hatches to head to Friday Harbor.

Like yesterday in Roche Harbor, we experienced Friday Harbor much like a first time visitor. While we knew where all the roads lead to, we got to walk them knowing that there wasn't a spot like Friday Harbor in our Canada stops.

Our activity in Friday was to have no activity. We popped in to San Juan Canvas to check on an appointment we have in the coming months for bow seats (and buy some of their perfect boat bags). A stop in the pharmacy was made and the dogs were invited in to join. I didn't find the Bring Fido concept was as prominent in Canada as it is here in the states. From there we took the pups to the Blue Water to enjoy lunch and then up to the Crab House rooftop for the best views in town. We did some fishing for prawns, ling cod, and crab dip at the dock market. I ended my town tour with a stop at Deer Hazel to admire (and purchase) some of their artfully curated apparel.

Our trip to Desolation Sound and varying stops along our way has brought a new excitement on what our future holds as boaters. We aren't close to making a dent in the beauty that is waiting for us on our return. This trip did not come without the appreciation of what it takes to see these locations. We look forward to the day when it is our "turn" to spend extended time exploring, but until then we will take the little bursts of time to chart out our next course. It's back to work for us.

Thanks to all who have helped and advised on this adventure! - Knot on Call